Trip Report: Skiing The Last Frontier

Two weeks skiing and camping in the Alaska Range

By Stio

WHERE: The Alaska Range, Denali National Park

WHEN: April 27th - May 12th.

THE JACKSON HOLE CREW:
- Dave Van Ham, Chef
- Josh Mandel, Photographer
- Ryan Halverson, Filmmaker

THE PLAN: Take a Sheldon Air Services prop plane from Talkeetna, Alaska to Pika Glacier where crew will be dropped off for 5 days of camping and skiing in the remote reaches of the Alaska Range. On Day 6, take another prop plane shuttle to Denali basecamp on the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, to meet up with friends for 10 more days of camping and skiing.

THE GEAR:
Environ Jacket
Environ Pants
Hometown Down Hooded Jacket
Gannett Peak Hooded Jacket
Basis Power Dry® Zip Neck

Photography by Josh Mandel | Words and Video by Ryan Halverson

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The Pika Glacier

Flying around and into the Alaska range is in and of itself an amazing experience. Many people pay to do just that; to see the incredible sight of Denali and the other surrounding giants up close. For us, our adventure began after we unloaded all our gear and watched our ride fly off into the distance. After moving through a foot of untouched snow a few hundred yards from the landing zone, we immediately began digging and setting up camp. This was our home for the next 5 days.

Ski Conditions

After our first night we set out and toured the Pika Glacier; exploring up and over ridges and passes while scouting for prime ski terrain. Fortunately for us, there were many skiable options and snow conditions were good. Ultimately, weather remained the defining factor on how much we could get after it. It ended up snowing almost everyday, but also cleared up here and there, allowing windows of opportunity that were highly unpredictable. We got a couple good lines in with decent visibility, but also a couple where we would climb up a steep chute only to descend blindly in a storm cloud. Regardless, we made some extremely fun turns and the remote surroundings and incredible environment made every moment memorable.

Golden COULOIR

We had our eyes on a couloir at the Pika Glacier that was a little more committing than the previous. Being northwest facing, it didn’t get light until late in the day. We geared up from camp around 8pm and headed out. The bergschrund crossing went smooth, and after climbing another 1000 feet of sun-lit, golden snow we neared the top, where things got extremely steep. Deciding not to top out, we had to dig a snow ledge on the 60 degree slope and very carefully transition to our skis. This turned out to be a run of a lifetime. Slough management was key as we each rode as fast as we could in the glowing sunset to the valley below. Many high-fives and a little whiskey back at camp soon followed.

DENALI BASECAMP

The next day our plane arrived and flew us 30 miles up the glacier to the foot of Mount Hunter and Denali basecamp. This area was more populated with climbers from all over the world, waiting for their chance to tackle the tallest summit in North America. For us, we were just looking to ski and ride the awesome terrain that surrounds camp, so we didn’t have much competition. We also met up with our good friends Travis McAlpine and Dustin Fric, who were manning the Sheldon Air Service hut. With this came a handful of other like-minded friends as well as a nice canvas tent we could retreat to for warm breakfasts and dinners.

New Crew:
-Travis McAlpine, Chef and Guide
-Dustin Fric, Pumpkin Patch Owner
- And many other great people!

Around Camp

Denali Basecamp sits between the three tallest peaks in the range, Mt. Hunter (14,573ft), Mt. Foraker (17,400ft), and just over the ridge, Denali (20,310ft). The Mountains are much bigger here, and serac fall and avalanches were constantly happening all around. The camp is generally a safe spot, but it is still a little unnerving hearing the deep rumble of the mountain fall apart, and something that was always in your mind when touring around. The weather remained unsettled, and since the terrain we were dealing with was much more serious, we ended up having a lot of down days hanging around camp and taking it all in. We also spent a good couple days working on glacier travel techniques and crevasse rescue, thanks to Travis and Dustin.

Good conditions finally Arrive

Despite the many down days, we did get some good skiing in. We did a few tours around the area and skied a fun couloir on a lower aspect of the glacier for Josh’s birthday. We approached - then bailed - on our ascent of Mt. Frances due to warming weather and a good sized wet slide, and instead skied the Radio Control Tower. Ultimately, the main highlight ended up being a very steep spine face that was located right across from camp. We studied the face for days, since it ominously stared us down whenever it was clear enough for a view. Finally, on May 7th, the weather looked promising and we set out to ski two of the best lines of our life.

10:00 AM LINE

Putting on cold boots and gearing up early took some effort. Our goal was to be skiing around 10am, and had we known the rewards this line would have offered, we probably would have woken up hours earlier and lapped it! This was an awesome, steep, open face with tons of mini spines. Our slough was hot on our tails as we skipped over the bergschrund.

8:00 PM Line

That same afternoon, we geared back up to have a go at the face directly across from camp. We knew it would get sun from 8:00pm - 9:00pm and we needed to be ready to ski when it did. We successfully crossed the bergschrund, and we were once again climbing up an Alaskan dream face. We all had different lines in mind, so Dave, Travis and myself broke apart and headed to each line to start putting in our own bootpacks. Climbing this face was like being in another world. It was so steep and perpetually surrounded by spines, rocks and ice. Looking down on the cracked valley below with our tiny camp in the distance really put perspective on this place. Staying focused was key. Travis and Dave each dropped and I saw them ski out below amped with excitement and stoke. I once again dug out a snow ledge, a foot into the slope and only 6 inches wide on what felt like a nearly vertical wall. I moved very carefully as I transitioned to the first ski and then the second. When I was ready I radioed to the crew back at camp and then dropped. After a few committing turns I was able to hit the spine I had targeted. I’ll never forget how incredible it felt to hop over my slough and send it over the small bergschrund. We made it back to camp and celebrated with the rest of the crew.

DOWN DAY FUN

The next few days brought bad weather, so we rested and Dave and Josh built a pump track course. Speed bump to tent jump, to berm turn to berm turn, and then the final kicker over the old latrine. This kept us entertained for the rest of the trip.

THat's a wrap

Our planned departure day was cloudy, so we had to wait until the next day. When the plane came to get us, we were ready for a shower and Hip Hop Night at The Fairview - the mandatory post glacier hangout in Talkeetna. As excited as we were flying out and knowing that we’d soon be on dry ground, we couldn‘t help but gaze at endless views of mountains and lines and dream about the day we’d be back for more.