We ran backcountry camps in Montana’s Tobacco Root Mountains at the Bell Lake Yurt for three years. Our trip to Iceland was a result of positive experiences at the yurt camps. We coached teenage girls through the basics of skinning and “how to pack your bag”, to more complicated skills, like route management, companion rescue, leading skin tracks, and group dynamics.
All of our work in Montana brought us to the whiteout on the remote ridgeline in Iceland.
Lindsay pulled out her compass, GPS, and route plan we had made with our boat captain, Sigurdur “Siggi” Jonsson the night before. Our objective was to gain the ridge of Snvinafell Peak from the Hesteyrarfjord, traverse it, and descend one fjord south to the Veiðileysufjörður where Siggi’s sailboat would be waiting for us. Lindsay had a fixed point on the GPS where we knew descending wouldn’t be an issue; an open, moderately steep, south east facing slope. The hazard we faced were ridge line drop offs we could not see through such dense fog.
We moved together, deliberately and as one unit, just as we had practiced during their first time skinning to the yurt in Montana. After an hour of skinning in the milk jug we had reached our GPS point. As a group we decided that I would ski first and radio up a report. I side slipped down five feet and disappeared into the fog. The surface felt smooth underneath, a good sign, almost surfy. I still couldn’t see anything and just as I felt my morning’s breakfast about to come up from the vertigo effect the fog lifted. Our south east facing slope of choice with Icelandic corn all the way to the boat. My spirits lifted with the fog. I could see Siggi! I radioed to Lindsay, “The fog lifts half way down, ski slow until it lifts, and then have fun!” We did just that and the girls sliced through Icelandic corn all the way to the ocean’s shore.